CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 6 



I INTRODUCTION 7 



1 . General 7 



2. Study Objectives 8 



II BACKGROUND 8 



1. Wave Refraction 8 



2. Crenulate Bays (LeBlond, 1972) 9 



3. Crenulate Bays (Rea and Komar, 1975) 9 



4. General One-Line Shoreline Model 10 



III THE NUMERICAL MODEL 11 



1. Description 11 



2. Refraction 11 



3. Diffraction 15 



4. Sand Transport Model 18 



IV SIMULATIONS AND VERIFICATION 28 



1. Simulation of Savage's Physical Model Tests 28 



2. Several Runs Using Shore Perpendicular Structures to 



Demonstrate Effects of Altering Some of the Pertinent 



Parameters 28 



3. Simulations of Sediment Transport of Dredge Disposal in 



the Vicinity of Oregon Inlet 30 



4. Simulation of the Longshore Sand Transport Study at 



Channel Islands Harbor, California 45 



V SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS 48 



LITERATURE CITED 52 



APPENDIX 



A DISCUSSION OF CONSTANTS AND SOME OF THE VARIABLES REQUIRED 



BY THE MODEL 55 



B PROGRAM LISTING 65 



C CONTOURS AND SCHEMATIC ILLUSTRATIONS 84 



D METHODOLOGY AND PROGRAM LISTING OF COMPUTER PROGRAM WHICH 

 CONVERTS BATHYMETRIC DATA INTO MONOTONICALLY DECREASING 



DEPTH CONTOURS 102 



E USER DOCUMENTATION AND INPUT AND OUTPUT FOR PROGRAM 



VERIFICATION Ill 



TABLES 



1 Summary of results at Oregon Inlet 38 



2 Monthly values of Ay 40 



