CONTENTS--Continued 



■ FIGURES 



Page 



1 Definition sketch 12 



2 Flow chart 13 



3 Definition sketch for wave diffraction 17 



4 Distribution of sediment transport across the surf zone 19 



5 Schematic representation of banded matrix if not stored in 



banded storage mode 26 



6 Simulation of the physical model of Savage (1959) 29 



7 Equilibrium planform, case 4.2a . 31 



8 Equilibrium planform, case 4.2b 32 



9 Equilibrium planform, case 4.2c 33 



10 Equilibrium planform, case 4. 2d 34 



11 Stepped version of equilibrium profile used in the Oregon Inlet 



modeling 36 



12 Initial contours used in the numerical model for all the Oregon Inlet 



simulations 37 



13 Monthly incremental values of Ay due to dredge disposal illustrated 



for the block between 7- and 11-foot contours 39 



14 Initial and final 7- and 11-foot contours (no distortion) 41 



15 Initial and final contours for case 2.cl 42 



16 Stepped version of equilibrium profile used in the Oregon Inlet 



modeling, h=Ay2/3, case 4 44 



17 Shore-perpendicular cross section of disposal mound 45 



18 Incremental values of Ay due to dredge disposal 45 



19 Idealized numerical model representation of offshore breakwater at 



Channel Islands Harbor, California . . 47 



20 CIH simulation of shoreline contour 49 



21 CIH simulation of (JMAX)th contour 50 



