Finally, wave data are read into the program and the simulation begins. 

 (For information regarding "Read Formats" for the various constants and 

 variables, see Appendix E). Wave data required are wave height, wave period, 

 wave angle relative to the x-axis of the model at a depth, WDEPTH and the 

 duration of the wave climate (HS, T, ALPWIS, and a combination of NTIMES x 

 DELT, respectively, in the model). As is always the case with numerical 

 models, the time step and space steps are wery important to both stability 

 and accuracy. Time steps on the order of 3 to 6 hours (10,800 to 21,600 

 seconds) or less are recommended. However, the complexity of the bathymetry, 

 variation and time series of the wave data, constants used (especially 

 Cqff) along with several other factors, greatly influences the stability 

 and accuracy of the results. 



Table A-1 lists several of the important variables in the computer 

 program. 



Table A-1. List of important variables in the program 



ABAND The input banded matrix which stores the values from equation (37) 



ADEAN The value of the scaling parameter in the equilibrium beach profile 



ALPHAS The angle a contour makes with the x-direction base line 

 (counter-clockwise is positive) 



ALPWIS The angle (-90° to +90°) the wave crest makes with the 

 x-direction (counter-clockwise is positive) 



AMP The amplitude of the diffracted wave in the shadow zone 



ANGGEN The wave angle at a depth, WDEPTH 



ANGLOC The local contour orientation angle 



AWARE See equations (36) and (37) 



BERM The height of the berm above water level 



BMATRX The matrix which, upon solution of the banded matrix problem 

 yields the new y values 



C The wave celerity 



CAPPA The breaking wave index 



CC Constant which establishes the width of the distribution of 

 sediment transport across the surf zone 



CG The group velocity throughout the wave field 



CGEN The linear wave theory celerity at a depth, WDEPTH 



60 



