REPOSE The angle of repose of the sediment 



RHO The mass density of seawater 



RHOND The dimension! ess distance from the tip of structure where 

 diffraction is initiated 



RHOS The mass density of sediment 



RK The wave number 



S3 See equations (36) and (37) 



SPACE The slope of the shoreface 



SJETTY The length of the shore-perpendicular structure (from the base 

 line) 



SIGMA The wave radian frequency 



T The wave period 



TAU The dissipative interface parameter 



THETA The wave angle throughout the wave field 



THEATO The wave angle at the tip of the structure 



TKSI The longshore sediment transport rate coefficient 



TWOPI Twice the value of -n 



U See equations (36) and (37) 



UCRIT The critical velocity required to move the sediment according to 

 the Sheid's diagram 



Y See equations (36) and (37) 



WDEPTH The depth of water in meters to which the input wave conditions 

 are to be transformed 



WEQ The equilibrium profile distance between contours as defined by 

 the stepped profile 



XCOOR The x-coordinate where the wave field is to be calculated. 



Together with YCOOR, they determine whether the position is within 

 or beyond the diffraction shadow zone 



XDISTN The location of the structure along the shoreline in feet 



Y The distance offshore to the contours 



63 



