SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



A(w) spectrum function of the amplitude of n (see eq. B-5) 



a, vertical distance from breaker wave trough to MWL (see Fig. A-3) 



B(t) envelope function (see eq. B-6 and Fig. B-2) 



b crest length between orthogonals (see Fig. A-2) 



D subscript for condition at the breaker 



C wave velocity 



d water depth 



E wave energy density (see eq. B-1) with subscripts 



g acceleration of gravity 



H wave height 



H' deepwater height assuming no refraction 



FL mean value of the highest fraction of wave heights above a height 



H which has a probability, p, of occurrence (see eqs. B-8 and B-IO) 



^rms I'oot -mean-square height (eq. B-3) 



Hg significant wave height (eq. B-13) 



h water depth measured from wave crest to bottom (Fig. A-3) 



h* generalized water depth under a breaking wave (eq. 2) 



i subscript for conditions at point i (Fig. A-2) 



Kp refraction coefficient (eq. A-11) 



Kg shoaling coefficient (eq. A-12) 



L wavelength 



tn natural log symbol 



N number of waves 



n ratio of group velocity to individual wave velocity (eq. A-17) 



o subscript for conditions in deep water (except eq. B-6) 



P energy flux, per unit length of shoreline, defined by equation (A-6) 



P(H) probability function of wave height 



