SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



E total variance in wind sea 



E (f) upper bound on energy density in a frequency, f 



f frequency 



f low-frequency cutoff 



f peak frequency of the spectrum 



g gravitational acceleration 



H depth-controlled wave height (spectral) 



H 1 linearly shoaled wave height 



H. breaker height 



H. depth-limited wave height (monochromatic) 



H significant wave height 



h depth 



K^K S refraction-shoaling coefficient 



u windspeed 



a Phillips' equilibrium coefficient 



it pi 



$ dimensionless function describing deviation from deepwater equilibrium 

 range 



to, dimensionless combination of g, f, and h 



