APPENDIX E 



COMPARISON OF PRESSURE SENSOR ARRAY AND VISUAL OBSERVATIONS 

 OF WAVES AT TORREY PINES BEACH., CALIFORNIA 



FEBRUARY 1973 - MAY 1974 



Definition of terms: 



1. H, : (Pressure sensors) calculated breaker height from energy 

 density of the energy spectral peak and refraction to 

 the shoreline. 



2. H K : (Visual observation) visual estimate of breaker height 

 by observer on the beach. 



b 



3. Period: (Pressure sensors) model period for the defined peak 



of the data from all four pressure sensors of the array. 



4. Period: (Visual observations) the average period of 10 



individual waves as seen by the observer. 



5. a : The direction of best fit to a single wave train of 



the data measured by the four-sensor array. Angle 

 is measured from the normal to the array in 33-foot- 

 water (10 meters) depth. 



6. Act : Uncertainty assigned to a . 



o J 6 o 



7. a : (Pressure sensors) the angle of approach of a wave to 



the beach calculated by refracting the measured direct- 

 ion of best fit to the array shoreward to the breaker 

 depth of the wave relative to MSL. 



8. a, : (Visual observations) the observed angle of approach 



of the waves relative to the beach at the break point. 



Measurements from pressure sensors are data from Table V-l of Inman 

 (in preparation, 1975). 



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