speed as the scaling parameter. They found marked differences in profile 

 response depending on the initial shape being planar or equilibrium profile 

 type (Bruun 1954, Dean 1977). An initially plane beach produced a more 

 pronounced bar and steeper offshore slopes. The fall speed parameter (Dean 

 1973) and the deepwater wave steepness were used to distinguish erosional and 

 accretionary profiles using large wave tank data. 



142. Mimura, Otsuka, and Watanabe (1987) performed a laboratory 

 experiment with a small wave tank to investigate the effect of irregular waves 

 on the beach profile. They addressed the question of which representative 

 wave height to use for describing profile response. The mean wave height 

 represented macroscopic beach changes such as bar and berm development most 

 satisfactorily, whereas microscopic phenomena such as threshold of transport 

 and ripple formation were better described by use of significant wave height. 



143. Nishimura and Sunamura (1987) applied a numerical model to 

 simulate a number of test cases from the large wave tank experiments by Kajima 

 et al . (1983a). The cross-shore transport rate expression employed the Ursell 

 number and a mobility parameter proposed by Hallermeier (1982). The numerical 

 model had the capability of generating bars but failed to predict bar 

 location. 



144. Boczar-Karakiewicz and Davidson-Arnott (1987) proposed the non- 

 linear interaction between shallow-water waves as a possible cause of bar 

 formation. A mathematical model was developed to predict the generation of 

 bars, and model results were compared with field data. 



145. Kraus and Larson (1988a) described the large wave tank experiments 

 on beach profile change performed by Saville (1957) and a similar experiment 

 performed by the US Army Corps of Engineers, giving a listing of all the data. 



146. Nairn (1988) developed a cross -shore sediment transport model 

 involving random wave transformation. Two different methods of wave height 

 transformation were investigated, namely using the root mean square wave 

 height as a representative measure in the wave height calculations and the 

 complete transfer of the probability density function based on the response of 

 individual wave components . 



147. Moller and Swart (1988) collected data on beach profile change on 

 a natural beach at Oranjemund on the South West African coast during a severe 



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