a length increment of 0.5 or 1.0 m depending on the resolution necessary to 

 distinguish principal features of the profile shape. The accuracy of the 

 digitization is judged to be compatible with the profile surveys of the CE 

 data, which is on the order of ± 1 . 5 cm in the vertical coordinate. No 

 attempt was made to distinguish small-scale profile features such as ripples. 



178. In the CRIEPI experiments wave height along the profile was 

 measured from a vehicle mounted on rails on top of the tank. To confirm the 

 two -dimensionality of the experiment, profiles were surveyed along three lines 

 in the tank during the first few runs. Because the depth difference was small 

 between the three survey lines, only the center line was surveyed in later 

 cases (Kajima et al . 1983a). Wave measurements were usually carried out 

 between profile surveys, and wave setup was determined. Plunging, spilling, 

 and surging breaking waves were observed, although plunging breakers occurred 

 in the majority of cases. Cases started from nonplanar bottom (in most cases 

 the beach profile that remained from the previous test case) are not included 

 in Table 2, namely Cases 1-2, 1-4, 1-5, 1-6, 1-7, 4-4, and 6-3. 



Field data 



179. At the Field Research Facility (FRF) of the Coastal Engineering 

 Research Center (CERC) located at Duck, North Carolina, profile surveys are 

 made regularly together with measurements of the wave and water level climate. 

 During the period 1981-1984, four shore -normal profile lines (Lines 58, 62, 

 188, and 190) were surveyed approximately every 2 weeks with a typical spacing 

 between survey points of 10 m (Howd and Birkemeier 1987). 



180. Wave data are tabulated at 6-hr intervals based on a 20-min record 

 at a wave gage (Gage 620) located at the end of the research pier, and data 

 are simultaneously collected by a Waverider buoy off the end of the pier in 



18 m of water (Gage 625). Water level is measured at 6-min intervals by a 

 tide gage mounted at the end of the pier, and the record consists of the total 

 change, including both tide and storm surge. Water level measurements used in 

 the present study are averages over 1-hr intervals. 



181. The profile change data set from the FRF is the most detailed 

 known, encompassing profile surveys, water level, and wave data, and showing 

 both seasonal and short-term changes in the beach profile. The FRF data set 

 was primarily used for verifying the numerical model of beach profile change. 



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