Table 3 



Criteria for Classifying Bar and Berm Profiles 

 Erosion and Accretion 



Author 



Waters (1939) 



Rector (1954) 



Iwagaki and 

 Noda (1963) 



Nayak (1970) 



Dean (1973) 



Kriebel, Dally, 

 and Dean (1987) 



Sunamura and 



Horikawa (1975) 

 Sunamura (1980) 



Hat tori and 



Kawamata (1981) 



Wright and 

 Short (1984) 



Present Work 



Parameters 

 Ho/Lo 



H^/L,, D/L„ 



H^/L,, tijD 



H„/L„, H^/SD 

 H„/L,, TTw/gT 



HJL^, D/L, 

 tan/3 



(H„/Ljtan^, 

 w/gT 



Hb/wT 



HyL„, HywT 



Comments 



Hq/Lo > 0.025, bar 

 H^/Lo < 0.025, berm 



D/L„ < 0.0146(HyLJ^", bar 

 D/Lq > 0.0146(Ho/Lo)^•2^ berm 



Graphically determined 



Graphically determined 



H„/Lo > Arrw/gT, bar 

 Ho/Lq < ATTw/gT, berm 

 A = 1.7, mainly lab scale 

 A = 4-5, prototype scale 



HJL^ > C(tan/3)-°-2^(D/Lj°-S^ 



(bar) 

 tijh^ < C(tan/3)-°-27(D/LJ°-6^ 



(berm) 

 (C = 4, small-scale lab. regular 

 waves; C = 18, field) 



(H^LJ tan/3 > 0.5 w/gT, bar 

 (Hq/Lq) tan/3 < 0.5 w/gT, berm 



H^/wT > 6, bar 



Hjj/wT = 1-6, mixed bar and berm 



H^/wT < 1, berm 



H„/L„ < M (H„/wT)^ bar 

 HyL„ > M (HywT)\ berm 

 (M = 0.0007 regular waves in lab. 

 or mean wave height in field) 



Notation: H^ , deepwater wave height; L^ , deepwater wavelength; D , 

 median grain size; S , specific gravity of sand; w , sand fall speed; g , 

 acceleration of gravity; T , wave period; tan/3 , beach slope; Hj, , breaking 

 wave height. 



63 



