The greatest portion of the energy was found in the frequencies of the 

 incident short-period waves. 



108. Sunamura (1984a) derived a formula to determine the cross -shore 

 transport rate in the swash zone taken as an average over 1 hour. The 

 transport rate was related to the near-bottom orbital velocity, and the 

 transport equation predicted the net direction of sand movement. 



109. Takeda (1984) studied the behavior of beaches during accretionary 

 conditions. Based on field investigations from Naka Beach, Japan, he derived 

 predictive relationships for determining if onshore movement of bars occurs, 

 average speed of onshore bar migration, and berm height. He pointed out the 

 rapid formation of berms in the field where the buildup may be completed in 

 one or two days (cf. Kriebel , Dally, and Dean 1986). 



110. Greenwood and Mittler (1984) inferred the volume flux of sediment 

 over a bar by means of rods driven into the bed on which a freely moving 

 fitting was mounted to indicate changes in bed elevation. Their study 

 indicated an energetics approach in accordance with Bagnold (1963) to be 

 reasonable for predicting equilibrium slopes seaward of the break point. 



111. Sunamura (1984b) obtained empirical expressions for the beach face 

 slope involving the breaking wave height, wave period, and grain size. 

 Equations were developed and applied for laboratory and field conditions. 



112. Shibayama (1984) investigated the role of vortices in sediment 

 transport and derived transport formulas for bed and suspended load based on 

 Shields parameter. The generation of vortices was not confined to plunging 

 breakers but could occur under spilling breakers as well . 



113. Sunamura and Takeda (1984) quantified onshore migration of bars 

 from a 2 -year series of profile data from a beach in Japan. They derived a 

 criterion to determine the occurrence of onshore bar movement and an equation 

 to estimate the migration speed (Takeda 1984). Onshore transport typically 

 took place in the form of bed load carried shoreward in a hydraulic bore. 



114. Wright and Short (1984) used the dimensionless fall speed, based 

 on the breaking wave height, in a classification process of three-dimensional 

 beach stages. 



34 



