77. Greenwood and Davids on -Arnott (1979) presented a classification of 

 wave-formed bars and a review of proposed mechanisms for bar formation 

 (Zenkovich 1967). 



78. Hallermeier (1979, 1984) studied the limit depth for intense bed 

 agitation and derived an expression for this depth based on linear wave 

 shoaling. He also proposed an equation for the yearly limit depth for 

 significant profile change involving wave conditions which exceeded 12 hours 

 per year (see also Birkemeier 1985b). 



79. Hattori and Kawamata (1979) investigated the behavior of beach 

 profiles in front of a seawall by means of laboratory experiments. Their 

 conclusion was that material eroded during a storm returned to the seawall 

 during low wave conditions to form a new beach (cf. reviews of Kraus 1987, 

 1988). 



80. Chappell and Eliot (1979) performed statistical analyses of 

 morphological patterns from data obtained along the southern coast of 

 Australia. Seven inshore states were identified which could be related to the 

 current, the antecedent wave climate, and the general morphology (Sonu 1969). 



81. Nilsson (1979) assumed bars to be formed by partially reflected 

 Stokes wave groups and developed a numerical model based on this mechanism. 

 Sediment transport rates were calculated from the bottom stress distribution, 

 and an offshore directed mean current was superimposed on the velocity field 

 generated by the standing waves. 



82. Short (1979) conducted field studies along the southeast Australian 

 coast which formed the basis for proposing a conceptual three-dimensional 

 beach- stage model. The model comprised ten different stages ranging from pure 

 erosive to pure accretive conditions. Transitions between stages were related 

 to the breaking wave height and breaker power. Wright et al . (1979) discussed 

 the characteristics of reflective and dissipative beaches as elucidated from 

 Australian field data. The surf scaling parameter (Guza and Bowen 1977) was 

 considered an important quantity for determining the degree of reflectivity of 

 a specific profile. Long-period waves (infragravity waves, edge waves) were 

 believed to play a major role in the creation of three-dimensional beach 

 morphology. 



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