70. Owens (1977) studied beach and nearshore morphology in the Gulf of 

 St. Lawrence, Canada, describing the cycles of erosion and accretion resulting 

 from storms and post- storm recovery. 



71. Chiu (1977) mapped the effect of the 1975 Hurricane Eloise on the 

 beach profiles along the Gulf of Mexico (Sonu 1970). Profiles with a gentle 

 slope and a wide beach experienced less erosion compared with steep slopes, 

 whereas profiles in the vicinity of structures experienced greater amounts of 

 erosion. 



72. Dalrymple and Thompson (1977) related foreshore slope to the 

 dimensionless fall speed using laboratory data and presented an extensive 

 summary of scaling laws for movable-bed modeling. 



73. Felder (1978) and Felder and Fisher (1980) divided the beach 

 profile into various regions with specific transport relationships and 

 developed a numerical model to simulate bar response to wave action. In the 

 surf zone, the transport rate depended on the velocity of a solitary wave. 



74. Aubrey (1978) and Aubrey, Inman, and Winant (1980) used the 

 technique of eigenvector analysis (Hayden et al . 1975) in beach profile 

 characterization to predict beach profile change. Both profile evolution on a 

 daily and weekly basis were predicted from incident wave conditions where the 

 weekly mean wave energy was found to be the best predictor for weekly changes. 

 Aubrey (1979) used measurements of beach profiles in southern California 

 spanning 5 years to investigate temporal properties of profile change. He 

 discovered two pivotal (fixed) points, one located at 2 to 3-m depth and one 

 at 6-m depth. Sediment exchange across the former point was estimated at 



85 m^/m and across the latter at 15 m'^/m per year. 



75. Hunter, Clifton, and Phillips (1979) studied nearshore bars on the 

 Oregon coast which attached to the shoreline and migrated alongshore. A 

 seaward net flow (undertow) along the bottom was occasionally observed 

 shoreward of the bar during field investigations (Mothersill 1970). 



76. Greenwood and Mittler (1979) found support in the studies of 

 sedimentary structures of the bar system being in dynamic equilibrium from 

 sediment movement in two opposite directions. An asymmetric wave field moved 

 the sand landward and rip currents moved the material seaward. 



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