65. Swart (1975, 1977) studied cross -shore transport properties and 

 characteristic shapes of beach profiles. A cross -shore sediment transport 

 equation was proposed where the rate was proportional to a geometrically- 

 defined deviation from the equilibrium profile shape. A numerical model was 

 developed based on the derived empirical relationships and applied to a beach 

 fill case. 



66. Wang, Dalrymple, and Shiau (1975) developed a computer -intensive 

 three-dimensional numerical model of beach change assuming that cross-shore 

 transport occurred largely in suspension. The transport rate was related to 

 the energy dissipation across shore. 



67. Van Hijiim (1975, 1977) and Van Hijum and Pilarczyk (1982) investi- 

 gated equilibrium beach profiles of gravel beaches in laboratory tests and 

 derived empirical relationships for geometric properties of profiles. The net 

 cross -shore sand transport rate was calculated from the mass conservation 

 equation, and a criterion for the formation of bar/step profiles was proposed 

 for incident waves approaching at an angle to the shoreline. 



68. Hands (1976) observed in field studies at Lake Michigan that 

 plunging breakers were not essential for bar formation. He also noted a 

 slower response of the foreshore to a rising lake level than for the longshore 

 bars. A number of geometric bar properties were characterized in time and 

 space for the field data. 



69. Dean (1976) discussed equilibrium profiles in the context of energy 

 dissipation from wave breaking. Various causes of beach profile erosion were 

 identified and analyzed from the point of view of the equilibrium concept. 

 Dean (1977) analyzed beach profiles from the United States Atlantic and gulf 

 coasts and arrived at a 2/3 power law as the optimal function to describe the 

 profile shape, as previously suggested by Bruun (1954). Dean (1977) proposed 

 a physically-based explanation for the power shape assuming that the profile 

 was in equilibrium if the energy dissipation per unit water volume from wave 

 breaking was uniform across shore. Dean (1977b) developed a schematized model 

 of beach recession produced by storm activity based on the equilibrium profile 

 shape (Edelman 1969, 1973). 



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