60. Winant, Inman, and Nordstrom (1975) also used eigenvector analysis 

 to determine characteristic beach shapes and related the first eigenvector to 

 mean beach profile, the second to the bar/berm morphology, and the third to 

 the terrace feature. The data set consisted of 2 years of profile surveys at 

 Torrey Pines, California, performed at monthly intervals. 



61. Davidson-Arnott (1975) and Greenwood and Davidson- Arnott (1975) 

 performed field studies of a bar system in Kouchibouguac Bay, Canada, and 

 identified conditions for bar development; namely, gentle offshore slope, 

 small tidal range, availability of material, and absence of long-period swell. 

 They distinguished between the inner and outer bar system and described in 

 detail the characteristics of these features. The break point of the waves 

 was located on the seaward side of the bar in most cases and not on the crest. 

 Greenwood and Davidson-Arnott (1972) did textural analysis of sand from the 

 same area, revealing distinct zones with different statistical properties of 

 the grain size distribution across the profile (Mothersill 1970). 



62. Exon (1975) investigated bar fields in the western Baltic Sea which 

 were extremely regular due to evenly distributed wave energy alongshore. He 

 noted that the presence of engineering structures reduced the size of the bar 

 field. 



63. Kamphuis and Bridgeman (1975) performed wave tank experiments to 

 evaluate the performance of artificial beach nourishment. They concluded that 

 the inshore equilibrium profile was independent of the initial slope and a 

 function only of beach material and wave climate. However, the time elapsed 

 before equilibrium was attained, as well as the bar height, depended upon the 

 initial slope. 



64. Sunamura and Horikawa (1975) classified beach profile shapes into 

 three categories distinguished by the parameters of wave steepness, beach 

 slope, and grain size divided by wavelength. The criterion was applied to 

 both laboratory and field data, only requiring a different value of an 

 empirical coefficient to obtain division between the shapes . The same 

 parameters were used by Sunamura (1975) in a study of stable berm formations. 

 He also found that berm height (datum not given) was approximately equal to 

 breaking wave height. 



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