36. Ippen and Eagleson (1955) experimentally and theoretically investi- 

 gated sorting of sediments by wave shoaling on a plane beach. The movement of 

 single spherical particles was investigated and a "null point" was found on 

 the beach where the particle was stable for the specific grain size. 



37. Saville (1957) was the first to employ a large wave tank capable of 

 reproducing near -prototype wave and beach conditions, and he studied equili- 

 brium beach profiles and model scale effects. Waves with very low steepness 

 were found to produce storm profiles, contrary to results from small-scale 

 experiments (Waters 1939, Scott 1954). Comparisons were made between the 

 large wave tank studies and small-scale experiments, but no reliable relation- 

 ship between prototype and model was obtained. The data set from this 

 experiment is used extensively in the present work. 



38. Caldwell (1959) presented a summary of the effects of storm 

 (northeaster) and hurricane wave attack on natural beach profiles for a number 

 of storm events. 



39. McKee and Sterrett (1961) investigated cross-stratification 

 patterns in bars by spreading layers of magnetite over the sand. 



40. Kemp (1961) introduced the concept of "phase difference," referring 

 to the relation between time of uprush and wave period. He assumed the 

 transition from a step (ordinary) to a bar (storm) profile to be a function of 

 the phase difference and to occur roughly if the time of uprush was equal to 

 the wave period . 



41. Bruun (1962) applied his empirical equation (Bruun 1954) for an 

 equilibrium beach profile to estimate the amount of erosion occurring along 

 the Florida coast as a result of long-term sea level rise. 



42. Bagnold (1963, 1966) developed formulas for calculating sediment 

 transport rates, including cross -shore transport, based on a wave energy 

 approach, and distinguishing between bed load and suspended load. This work 

 has been refined and widely applied by others (e.g., Bailard and Inman 1981, 

 Bailard 1982, Stive 1987). Bed-load transport occurs through the contact 

 between individual grains, whereas in suspended load transport the grains are 

 supported by the diffusion of upward eddy momentum. A superimposed steady 

 current moves the grains along the bed. Inman and Bagnold (1963) derived an 

 expression for the local equilibrium slope of a beach based on wave energy 



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