steeper foreshore slope. He also determined a trend in variation in grain 

 size across the profile that is much cited in the literature. A bimodal 

 distribution was found with peaks at the summer berm and at the step of the 

 foreshore. The largest particles were found on the beach face close to the 

 limit of the backrush, and the grain size decreased in the seaward direction. 



32. Scott (1954) modified the wave steepness criterion of Waters (1939) 

 for distinguishing between ordinary (summer) and storm profiles, based on his 

 laboratory experiments. He also found that the rate of profile change was 

 greater if the initial profile was farther from equilibrium shape, and he 

 recognized the importance of wave-induced turbulence for promoting bar forma- 

 tion. Some analysis of sediment stratification and packing along the profile 

 was carried out. 



33. Rector (1954) investigated the shape of the equilibrium beach 

 profile in a laboratory study. Equations were developed for profile shapes in 

 two sections separated at the base of the foreshore. Coefficients in the 

 equilibrium profile equation were a function of deepwater wave steepness and 

 grain size normalized by the deepwater wavelength. An empirical relationship 

 was derived for determining the maximum depth of profile adjustment as a 

 function of the two parameters. These parameters were also used to predict 

 net sand transport direction. 



34. Watts (1954) and Watts and Dearduff (1954) studied the effect on 

 the beach profile of varying wave period and water level, respectively. A 

 varying wave period reduced the bar and trough system as compared to waves of 

 constant period but only slightly affected beach slope in the foreshore and 

 offshore. The influence of the water level variation for the range tested (at 

 most 20 percent variation in water level with respect to the tank depth in the 

 horizontal portion) was small, producing essentially the same foreshore and 

 offshore slopes. However, the active profile translated landward for the 

 tidal variation, allowing the waves to attack at a higher level and thus 

 activating a larger portion of the profile. 



35. Bruun (1954) developed a predictive equation for the equilibrium 

 beach profile by studying beaches along the Danish North Sea coast and the 

 California coast. The equilibrium shape (depth) followed a power curve with 

 distance offshore, with the power evaluated as 2/3. 



21 



