33 Calculated distributions of the net cross -shore 



sand transport rate for an erosional case (Case 300) 122 



34 Evolution of beach profile under constant incident 



waves for an accretionary case (Case 101) 123 



35 Calculated distributions of net cross -shore sand 



transport rate for an accretionary case (Case 101) 124 



36 Net cross-shore sand transport rate distributions 126 



37 Evolution of beach profile under constant incident wave 



conditions for a mixed accretionary and erosional 



case (Case 3-2) 128 



38 Decay of net cross -shore sand transport rate 131 



39 Evolution of peak offshore net sand transport rate 



for 16 CE cases 132 



40 Decay of peak offshore sand transport rate and a 



best-fit empirical predictive expression 134 



41 Evolution of peak onshore net sand transport rate 



for 16 CE cases 135 



42 Decay of peak onshore sand transport rate and a 



best-fit empirical predictive equation 136 



43 Definition sketch for four principal zones of 



cross -shore sand transport 138 



44 Spatial decay rate coefficient seaward of the break point 141 



45 Comparison of net offshore sand transport rates 



seaward of the break point and an empirical expression 141 



46 Comparison of spatial decay rate coefficients and an 



empirical predictive expression 143 



47 Comparison of net onshore sand transport rates seaward 



of the break point and an empirical predictive equation 144 



48 Net cross-shore sand transport rate distributions 



between break point and plunge point 147 



49 Net cross -shore sand transport rate versus calculated wave 



energy dissipation per unit volume in broken wave region .... 149 



50 Time behavior of net cross -shore sand transport rate 



distribution on the foreshore 153 



51 Distribution of breaker ratio for the CRIEPI data 160 



52 Distribution of breaker ratio for small-scale laboratory data . . . 160 



53 Comparison between measured and predicted breaker ratio 162 



54 Ratio between breaking and deepwater wave height as a 



function of deepwater wave steepness 162 



55 Measured and calculated wave heights 164 



56 Definition sketch for describing avalanching 172 



57 Calibration of numerical model 179 



58 Net cross-shore transport rates at selected times 179 



59 Optimization for model calibration 180 



60 Verification of numerical model 182 



61 Effect of K on bar volume 185 



62 Effect of K on maximum bar height 185 



63 Effect of £ on bar volume 186 



64 Effect of K on bar volume 187 



65 Effect of r on bar volume 189 



66 Effect of D on bar volume 190 



67 Effect of D on bar center of mass 191 



