LIST OF FIGURES 



No. Page 



1 Definition sketch of the beach profile 14 



2 Tank for Large Waves at Dalecarlia Reservation 48 



3 View of the wave generator in the LWT 49 



4 Notation sketch for beach profile morphology 58 



5 Absolute sum of profile change for selected cases 61 



6 Criterion for distinguishing profile type by use 



of wave steepness and dimensionless fall speed parameter .... 67 



7 Criterion for distinguishing profile type by use of wave 



steepness and ratio of wave height to grain size 68 



8 Criterion for distinguishing profile type by use of wave 



steepness and Dean parameter 68 



9 Criterion for distinguishing profile type by use of ratio 



of breaking wave height and grain size, and Ursell 



number at breaking 70 



10 Classification of erosion and accretion events in the 



field using deepwater wave steepness and dimensionless fall 



speed, with wave height taken as mean wave height 74 



11 Criterion for distinguishing shoreline retreat and advance 



by use of wave steepness, dimensionless fall speed, and 



initial beach slope 76 



12 Criteria for distinguishing profile type applied to 



small-scale laboratory data 78 



13 Growth and movement of breakpoint bar with elapsed time 



and location of break point 80 



14 Profile measured after 4.2 hr together with the initial 



profile and wave height distribution 81 



15 Growth of bar volume with elapsed time 83 



16 Measured equilibrium bar volume V^, and empirical 



prediction V 85 



17 Evolution of depth-to-bar crest 87 



18 Depth-to-bar crest h^, versus breaking wave height H^ 88 



19 Ratio of depth- to- trough bottom and depth-to-bar 



crest hj^/hg as a function of wave period 90 



20 Evolution of maximum bar height 91 



21 Comparison of measured equilibrium bar height 



(Zb)^, and empirical prediction (Zb)p 93 



22 Horizontal movement of bar center of mass 95 



23 Speed of bar movement with elapsed time 97 



24 Comparison of measured and predicted nondimensional 



horizontal distance between break point and trough bottom .... 101 



25 Evolution of shoreward slope of main breakpoint bars 102 



26 Evolution of seaward slopes of main breakpoint bars 104 



27 Evolution of representative step and terrace slopes 106 



28 Relation between berm center of mass and wave runup 108 



29 Growth of berm volume with elapsed time 110 



30 Growth of maximum berm height with elapsed time 112 



31 Growth of representative berm slopes with elapsed time 113 



32 Evolution of beach profile under constant incident wave 



conditions for an erosional case (Case 300) 121 



