CONTENTS 



Page 



PREFACE 1 



CONTENTS 3 



LIST OF TABLES 5 



LIST OF FIGURES 6 



PART I: INTRODUCTION 9 



Problem Statement and Objectives 9 



Procedure Used 11 



Basic Terminology 13 



Organization of This Report 16 



PART II: LITERATURE REVIEW 18 



Chronological Survey of Literature 18 



Synthesis of Previous Work 40 



PART III: DATA EMPLOYED IN THIS STUDY 44 



Data Acquisition Approaches 44 



Laboratory and Field Data Sets 46 



PART IV: QUANTIFICATION OF MORPHOLOGIC FEATURES 55 



Data Analysis Procedure 56 



Concept of Equilibrium Beach Profile 59 



Criteria for Distinguishing Profile Response 62 



Form and Movement of Bars 77 



Form and Movement of Berms 106 



Suiranary 114 



PART V: CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT RATE 117 



General Features of Cross -Shore Transport 119 



Classification of Transport Rate Distributions 122 



Approach to Equilibrium 129 



Magnitude of Net Cross -Shore Transport Rate 136 



Transport Regions 137 



Summary 153 



PART VI: NUMERICAL MODEL OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE 155 



Methodology 156 



Wave Model 158 



Transport Rate Equations 166 



Profile Change Model 173 



3 



