PREFACE 



This study was conducted at the Coastal Engineering Research Center 

 (CERC), US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES), and the Depart- 

 ment of Water Resources Engineering (DWRE) , Institute of Science and Technol- 

 ogy, University of Lund (UL) , Lund, Sweden. The work described herein was 

 authorized as a part of the Civil Works Research and Development Program by 

 the US Army Corps of Engineers (USAGE) and was performed under the Surf Zone 

 Sediment Transport Processes Work Unit 34321 which is in the Shore Protection 

 and Restoration Program, CERC. Messrs. John H. Lockhart, Jr., James E. Crews, 

 Charles W. Hummer, and John G. Housley are USAGE Technical Monitors. Dr. 

 Charles L. Vincent is Program Manager for the Shore Protection and Restoration 

 Program at CERC. 



This study was performed and the report prepared over the period 

 1 August 1986 through 30 March 1989 by Dr. Magnus Larson, Assistant Professor, 

 DWRE, and Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus , Senior Scientist, Research Division (CR), 

 CERC. The content of this report is substantially the same as the thesis 

 submitted to UL by Dr. Larson in partial fulfillment of the requirements for a 

 Ph.D. degree in civil engineering. Dr. Kraus was a thesis committee member. 

 The report updates and extends some material in the thesis. 



Work at UL was performed under the general supervision of Dr. Gunnar 

 Lindh, Head, DWRE, and was partially funded by Work Unit 34321 through the US 

 Army Research, Development, and Standardization Group, UK, under contract No. 

 DAJA-86-C-0046 . Dr. Larson was in residence at CERC over the period 15 July 

 1985 through 30 August 1987 . Work performed at CERC was under general 

 administrative supervision of Dr. James R. Houston, Chief, CERC; Mr. Charles 

 C. Calhoun, Jr., Assistant Chief, CERC; and Mr. H. Lee Butler, Chief, CR, 

 CERC. 



Dr. Kraus was the Principal Investigator of Work Unit 34321 during the 

 technical phase of the study. Ms. Kathryn J. Gingerich, Coastal Processes 

 Branch (CR-P) , CERC, was Principal Investigator during the publication phase 

 of the report and provided review and technical editing. Ms. Carolyn J. 

 Dickson (CR-P) assisted in formatting and preparation of the final manuscript. 

 Mr. Bruce A. Ebersole was Chief, CR-P. This report was edited by Ms. Shirley 



