profiles surveyed. Information about the specific cases, such as wave 

 conditions, sand grain size, and initial profile slope are sununarized in 

 Tables 1 and 2. 



308. Figure 32 shows the beach profile at consecutive times for CE Case 

 300, which is an example of a bar profile with transport mainly directed 

 offshore. Two bars appeared, and the shoreline receded considerably with a 

 pronounced scarp or step formation. Seaward of the step, the foreshore eroded 

 with a slope more gentle than the initial slope (1:15). In Figure 33 are 

 shown the calculated distributions of the cross -shore sand transport rate 

 associated with Case 300. Transport directed offshore has a positive sign; 

 the coordinate system originates from the position of the initial still -water 

 shoreline. Decay of the transport rate with time is clear from Figure 33, and 

 the maximum transport rate calculated from the final two surveys is more than 

 one order of magnitude smaller than the maximum from the first two surveys. 



309. The peak in the transport rate distribution translated seaward 

 with the break point, and thus the bar moved seaward. The first maximum in 

 the transport rate occurred shoreward of the first break point, close to the 

 plunge point and slightly seaward of the location of the trough bottom. 

 Another, smaller maximum in the transport rate was present further inshore, 

 and this maximum also moved slightly seaward with time. For the transport 

 rate distributions at later times, the shape was flatter and no maxima were 

 prominent, indicating that material was mainly conveyed from the inner to the 

 outer part of the profile. Seaward of the first maximiim, the transport rate 

 decreased rapidly with an approximate exponential shape. 



310. CE Case 101 is an example of a case of mainly onshore transport, 

 resulting in deposition on the foreshore and creation of a berm. Figure 34 

 shows surveyed profiles at consecutive times, with an initial slope of 1:15. 

 Although a large berm formed on the foreshore, a small bar was also present 

 just shoreward of the break point. The bar was created mainly during the 

 first hours of the run, and it rapidly reached an equilibrium volume. The 

 trough shoreward of the bar became less pronounced as the berm grew. 



311. In Figure 35 distributions of the transport rate pertaining to 

 Case 101 are shown (negative transport rate implies onshore transport) . The 

 transport rate decreased with time as the profile approached equilibrium 



120 



