allowed thorough analysis of the correlation between local wave properties and 

 transport rate at consecutive times during a run. 



O: 700 





o 



Q. 



Distance from Initial Shoreline (m] 



Figure 48. Net cross -shore sand transport rate distributions 

 between break point and plunge point 



358. Energy dissipation is related to the change in wave energy flux 

 along the profile. The energy flux F may be written using shallow-water 

 wave theory as 



F = I pgW" jih 



(23) 



where p is the density of water. The energy dissipation is given by 

 dF/dx . 



359. Due to the relatively low resolution in the wave height measure- 

 ment, evaluation of the derivative and transport proved sensitive to individ- 

 ual measurement values. To obtain a better estimate, the wave decay model of 

 Dally (1980) was least-squares fitted through discrete values of each measured 

 wave height distribution from the point of breaking shoreward until wave 

 reformation occurred or the water depth became small (approximately 20 cm) . 



147 



