H = 



F 



F 



A. A 



r dx r dx 



J h -« I h 



•' + e -^ 



K r' 



hjF 



.'^ J ^ dx 



(29) 



where, as previously mentioned, the cross -shore coordinate axis originates at 

 the break point. Figure 55 shows a typical fit between results of the breaker 

 decay model and measured wave heights in the surf zone. The symbols connected 

 by straight lines denote the model result for different times, whereas the 

 corresponding single points are the measured wave heights. The breaker decay 

 model was in this case least-squares fitted against all wave height distribu- 

 tion measurements made during one run. To evaluate parameters of the breaker 

 decay model simultaneously for various distributions, wave height was normal- 

 ized with the incipient breaking wave height, and cross -shore distance and 

 water depth were normalized with depth at incipient breaking. 



CRIEPI Case 3-4 



hf 

 1.8- 2.0 

 + 3.3- 3.6 

 11.3 - 11.5 

 B 21.7 - 22.1 

 ♦ 37.4-37.; 

 S 69.6-70.1 



Figure 55. Measured and calculated wave heights 

 164 



