parameter together with the deepwater wave steepness Hq/Lq . Quantities that 

 could be related to either H^/wT , Hq/Lq , or both parameters were bar 

 volume, ratio of trough depth to crest depth, bar height, and active profile 

 height, respectively normalized with various wave or sand properties. 

 Distance between break point and trough bottom, normalized with deepwater 

 wavelength, was determined to be a function of the local slope seaward of the 

 break point and H^/Hq . Average depth to bar crest proved to be directly 

 proportional to the breaking wave height. Profile properties derived from the 

 LWT data sets were found comparable to those in the field, which supported the 

 possibility of generalizing observations from the LWT experiments to field 

 application. The validity of the equilibrium beach profile concept was 

 confirmed by the LWT experiments, which clearly showed a systematic decrease 

 in profile change as time elapsed. 



540. A criterion (Equation 2) was developed to delineate between forma- 

 tion of bar and berm profiles in terms of H^/wT and H^/Lq . Although 

 several well-known criteria were evaluated using the LWT experiments, the 

 criterion developed in the present study appeared to be the most attractive 

 from a physical point of view and gave a good delineation between bar and berm 

 profiles. The criterion was closely related to the predominant direction of 

 cross -shore transport. A bar formed under mainly off shore -directed transport 

 and a berm formed under mainly onshore -directed transport. The criterion was 

 tested with field data and found to be valid with the same value of the 

 empirically determined coefficient when the deepwater wave height appearing in 

 the criterion was taken to be the mean wave height. 



541. Profile slopes were analyzed for the seaward and shoreward side of 

 the bar, seaward and shoreward side of the berm, inshore step, and terrace. 

 Circumstantial evidence was found for the process of avalanching to occur on 

 the shoreward bar face and on the inshore step as the slopes grew beyond a 

 critical angle. An average estimate of this angle of initial yield was 



28 deg, and the slope appeared to reach a stable value of around 20 deg. The 

 average slope on the seaward bar face was typically in the range 8-12 deg and 

 was, in many cases, well approximated by two linear slopes, possibly signify- 

 ing the occurrence of two somewhat different sediment transport processes. 

 Bar slopes for the LWT experiments were considerably steeper than correspond- 



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