555. Bar movement and location of bar crest were well reproduced by the 

 model both for the field calibration and verification runs. However, bar 

 troughs were not pronounced enough in the model, and bar size was underesti- 

 mated. Although bar face slopes produced by the model were steep for the LWT 

 cases simulated, in agreement with the physical experiment data, model simula- 

 tions for the field data with variable input waves and water level produced 

 more gentle slopes in agreement with the field measurements. This finding 

 supports the assumption of superposition implicit in the numerical model, 

 whereby the effect of a random wave field can be simulated as the effect of a 

 number of consecutive individual waves of different height and period. 



556. In conclusion, this study validated the methodology of obtaining 

 quantitative information on beach profile response in prototype -sized facili- 

 ties and generalizing the information to field conditions. The developed 

 numerical model successfully reproduced beach profile change both in large 

 tanks and in the field. The approach of focusing on macroscale profile 

 features such as bars and berms proved highly productive, both for providing a 

 thorough and quantitative understanding of beach profile change to wave action 

 and for promoting development of numerical models for simulating coastal 

 processes aimed at engineering use. 



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