APPENDIX B: NOTATION 



A Shape parameter for equilibrium beach profile, m'"'^^ 



D Median grain size of beach sand, m 



D Wave energy dissipation per unit water volume, Nm/m^/sec 



Dgq Equilibrium energy dissipation per unit water volume, Nm/m^/sec 



E Wave energy density, Nm/m^ 



F Wave energy flux, Nm/m/sec 



F3 Stable wave energy flux, Nm/m/sec 



g Acceleration due to gravity, m/sec^ 



h Water depth, m 



hj. Depth-to-bar crest, m 



hi Calculated profile depth at grid point i, m 



h™ Measured profile depth at grid point i, m 



ht Depth -to -bar trough, m 



H Wave height, m 



H Mean wave height, m 



H^o Energy-based wave height, m 



Hj.^3 Root mean square wave height, m 



Hgo Significant wave height, m 



i Integer number 



k Integer number 



K Transport rate coefficient, m''/N 



ijj Berm length, m 



ig Bar length, m 



i Plunge distance, m 



ijj Runup length, m 



i^ Trough length, m 



ij^(. Distance between break point and bar trough, m 



L Wavelength, m 



n Exponent determining spatial decay of transport rate 

 in wave reformation zones 



N Number of cells where avalanching occurs 



q Cross -shore sand transport rate, m'^/m/sec 



Bl 



