qj, Transport rate at break point, m'^/m/sec 



qj„ Peak transport rate, m'^/m/sec 



q^o Peak transport rate at time t=0, m'^/m/sec 



q^ Transport rate at wave reformation point, m'^/m/sec 



Q/^ Average absolute transport rate, m''/m/sec 



r Correlation coefficient 



r^ Coefficient of determination 



R Sum of squares of difference between measured and calculated 

 beach profile, m^ 



S Specific gravity of sand 



Sjjjj Radiation stress component directed onshore, N/m 



t Time, sec 



T Wave period, sec 



U Ursell number 



V Bar or berm volume, m^/m 



w Sand fall velocity, m/sec 



X Cross-shore coordinate, m 



x^ Seaward location of no profile change, m 



x^ Location of minimum transport rate in wave reformation zone , m 



Xq Shoreward location of no profile change, m 



Xj. Location of wave reformation point, m 



x^f^ Location of bar mass center, m 



z Depth coordinate 



Zj, Maximum berm height, m 



Zg Maximum bar height, m 



Zj^ Height of active subaerial profile, m 



a Temporal rate coefficient, sec"^ 



/3 Beach slope 



^1 First seaward bar slope 



^2 Second seaward bar slope 



P^ Shoreward bar slope 



^i, Terrace slope 



/Sj Step slope 



7 Ratio between wave height and water depth at breaking 



B2 



