SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



a dimensionless parameter 



b dimensionless parameter 



d water depth 



d/j depth of water at breaking wave 



g gravitational acceleration 



Hij wave height at breaking (breaker height) 



Hq deepwater significant wave height 



H' deepwater wave height equivalent to observed shallow-water wave 

 unaffected by refraction or friction. 



Hg significant wave height H ,3; average height of highest one-third 

 of waves for specified time period 



L wavelength 



L deepwater wavelength 



m beach slope 



Srj wave setdown at breaking zone 



S net wave setup at shore 



AS wave setup between breaker zone and shore 



T wave period 



