Program Deseriptum 



Program Title E>oonDinGi W/VTreft DfPTMS of WavG-BaseD Smo/Hu 'iowt 



Name ^oBEIZ-T J. HPil-UeP-MEieR Data Jan. 1981 



Address l2.eseAP-CH DiviSiorJ , \J, S. Ab>av Ccastal. EfJc-,iNeei^\ft(ii Pest^A rti^ H ^etJT&z 



City KiW&t^AKl feoiuoiMt, FoR-T BeuvOiR. stale \/i«.G,iW»A Zip Code ^^Obf) 



Program Description, Equations, Variables, etc. The MAiN PE<>f-iE-AM FEItPof^MS AN ITePATiVt 

 SOUOTION Op TWO foNCTlOMS DEFlrOiM^i Dl^iewSiON uESS WATER. PEPTH AT EACH 

 eMD OF /\ SHOAL' lONlT ALoMC, THE SOBME (iiTi^D BEAtH ptioFH-fc", AFTFP. WAVE 

 AND SAND CMA|^A(1TF|^ AT A SITE AP-E INPUT, THF SECArJT rAETHOD FlfJD<i 

 A PjiOT ACCUiZ-ATE TO TM&Ee" 5i6aJiFICawT F(6u(2.e"S . OtheiS. P^Ofi&AI^S : 

 CotNjVE(2-T THE DinFNSlONLtSS POCTS TO c^ Arv/D d;. , WATe(2. DePTHS i iV 

 lAETEpS AT THE (_A^DVVAf^-D AND SEAWAP-D ftoOfv/DARJ E S ^ K-E'SPe'CTiveLY j, 

 PeCFoP-M UWiTS CO^JvFR.SlO^S ^ And calculate CP\TltAL. VELOCITY a;^ 

 pop. SAND MOTION INITlAtTlON/ , OTHeR, 5'<MBoLS ARE: 



<^ = RATIO OF pENSiTV ^lFFER.EWCE" BETWEeN SiAMb AMD FuvJiD Tb FLOiD DENSlTf; 

 Ts* ANNl'AU AVEPAC,e" SI6N1F1CAWT WAVt pETilOD ) ^= A^XFLEKATION OF GRAVITY^ 

 Hs=^ ANhJUAL AVEp.ftC->E Sl&N»FKANX WAVE HE\GiHTj lA 04A(2ACTe2lSTlC SAWD SltE^ 

 0-= ANW^AL STAnJClM^D t)EVlAT\0(v; oF Sl6A)lFtCANT WAVE He\GHT^ L- LOCAL WAVELENCirMj 

 0.=- NEAE.- BOTTorA HOE-liorJTAl- Flow AMPuTUOt ^ L,-CqTVz--n^=-DeEr-WATER.NAvElENCiTMj 

 ^x. - (z-TT d^ /l) » DlMENSlOrJuESS WATH^R DEPT|4; X » tWKM<< INDEX STANP(NG) FoK/oRa., 

 TrtF two BASIC FONCTIOWS AfZ-E: _ 



^'^^ ^ o.oi)(' l7 ■'^ 



AND O - I + (CL (£'^^ - C^'^VCHj-O.S (t) ] , 0-61-51 



The SECANT HETHeD OSES thF ite(2.atiom Equation: 

 Other EqoATioNS and iDHrJTTies Employed A(2.e 

 si>vK ^, - 4 



MS AND IDENTTIES EMPLOYED A(2.e : 



SuTvk g^ -, ^c. = 2.Tra,/T ^ (8 ^'-^ d)"'^ Clbu C 3 '. 



Operating Limits and W/arnlngs TwE INCORPORATED 6AS\C RESOLTS ARE VALID 

 QrJuY Foii OPEN- COAST C.ON■D\T\0^;S AND SANP-SltE" SEPINVENTS (D 

 BETwEEM O.OOfc AND 0,Z centimeters). Lih/EAR WAVE THtOf^Y 

 And a modified Ex70NENT]/\L DISTR.I6UT10N FoR. CUjMOlATIVE WAVE" 

 HE\GiHT AP-E ASS\)rAET). Tne PooTS %f^ AnD ^;_ CAN BE pHYSlCAUuy 

 K\eAN)Ne,FUL. ONUV IF THEl AP-E BETWEEN 0, t AND 3.0 , APPEOX INVATEUY. 



20 



