SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 



D median sand grain diameter 



d water depth 



d- water depth at seaward bound of shoal zone 



d£ water depth at landward bound of shoal zone 



g acceleration of gravity 



H wave height 



Hg annual mean significant wave height 



H ,07 extreme significant wave height exceeded 12 hours per year 



Hg^Q annual median significant wave height 



L linear wavelength 



Lq linear wavelength in deep water 



T wave period 



Tg annual mean significant wave period 



Ujiiax(-d) maximum linear wave-induced horizontal velocity near the bed 



X argument of hyperbolic functions in Figure 4 



y' ratio of density difference between sand and fluid to fluid density 



a annual standard deviation of significant wave height 



