13 Jon. 1979 
1258 hr es.t. 
13 Jon.1979 
1058 hr e.s.t. 
Hg = 5.5 ft (168 cm) 
Hg = 5.5 ft (168cm) 
Hg= 4.6 ft (139 cm) 
Hs = 4.5 ft (136 cm) 
Energy Density 
Energy Density 
(0) 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 (0) 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 
Frequency (Hz) Frequency (Hz) 
13 Sept. 1978 
0000 hr e.s.t. 
11 Sept. 1978 
1100 hr e.s.t. 
Hs= 3.5 ft (108 cm) 
Hg = 3.3 ft (100 cm) 
Hg = 2.2 ft (67cm) 
Energy Density 
Energy Density 
Hg = 2.2 ft (67 cm) 
Hg = 1.8 ft (54cm) Hg= 1.8 ft (54cm) 
(0) (om) 0.2 0.3 0.4 (0) 0.1 0.2 0.3 a4 
Frequency (Hz) Frequency (Hz) 
Figure 6. Wave energy spectra from pier-mounted continuous wire gages 
at the CERC Field Research Facility (FRF) near Duck, North 
Carolina, showing variation along a line perpendicular to 
shore. Solid lines represent a gage at the seaward pier end 
(depth 29 feet or 8.8 meters); dashlines represent a gage 480 
feet (146 meters) from the seaward pier end (depth 22 feet 
or 6.6 meters); dot-dash lines represent a gage 840 feet (256 
meters) from the pier end (depth 17 feet or 5.1 meters). 
