coordinates of the edge are directly related to a time series of vertical runup 
excursion. Runup position in the timestack is found using edge detection 
algorithms combined with manual refinements when edge detection fails. After 
the edge detection is completed, image coordinates of the runup edge are 
transformed to a time series of vertical runup elevations. The 6-Hz timestack 
was decimated and saved as a 2-Hz time series. Standard Fourier wave 
analysis techniques were used to compute vertical runup spectra, runup wave 
height (R,,,), and peak period. Total record lengths were typically 119 min 
and processed in 4096-point (2,048-s) segments that overlapped 50 percent. 
The resulting spectra were smoothed in frequency with a 7-point band average, 
resulting in spectra with frequency resolution of 0.0034 Hz. Runup spectra 
were analyzed at the FRF. 
The wave runup spectra were divided into three wave frequency 
classifications; infragravity (0.005 to 0.04 Hz), swell (0.04 to 0.15 Hz), and 
sea (0.15 to 0.5 Hz). These divisions are not necessarily definitive. 
Infragravity waves, for example, can sometimes fall within the swell frequency 
range. Total significant runup wave height (R,,,) is computed from the sum of 
energy from all three wave bands (0.005 to 0.5 Hz). Record length, runup 
wave height, period, and percentage distribution of wave energy in the three 
categories is presented in Table B5 and plotted in Figure B26. 
The cross-shore range of runup was determined from each time series and is 
shown in Figure B27 superimposed on the daily beach profile. Mean runup 
position, mean water level recorded at the end of the FRF pier, and incident 
wave H,,, measured at the 8-m array are also listed in the figure. Beach slopes 
(B) in Figure B27 were computed between the two cross-shore positions on the 
profile that were +20 cm vertically from the mean runup position. This beach 
slope and incident wave conditions were used to determine a dimensionless 
surf-similarity parameter, the Irribaren number €, , as a measure of the 
dissipative/reflective nature of the beach. The Irribaren numbers shown in 
Figure B27 were computed as: 
where 
= incident deepwater significant wave height 
L, = deepwater wavelength 
B22 Appendix B Video Data 
