N 
EE = 16 SUF, of (2) 
which is its more conventional definition, or from the integrated direction 
spectrum (Equation 3) by: 
eS ES S(6,,) dO (3) 
m=] 
Peak wave period (T,) and peak direction (0,), can be determined by 
integrating the data in both direction and frequency as shown by the graphs on 
the vertical panels in Figures E12-E22. Note that as defined, the peak 
direction does not necessarily correspond to the waves which occurred at the 
peak period (i.e. peak energy). The PUV directional wave gauge consists of a 
Marsh-McBirney electromagnetic current meter and a Senso-Metrics Co., Inc. 
pressure sensor. It is mounted on a tripod located within the linear array. 
Wave direction is measured in degrees relative to true North and indicates the 
direction the waves are coming from. A detailed discussion of the data 
processing required to transform measured time series to estimates of 
frequency-direction spectra may be found in Long and Atmadja (1994)'. 
Surface Wave Gauges 
The Baylor gauges and the waverider buoy are two different types of 
gauges used to collect wave information. The Baylor gauges (nos. 625 and 
645) are surface piercing inductance staff gauges mounted on the pier at the 
locations indicated in Table E3 and Figure E3. The waverider (no. 630) is an 
accelerometer buoy located four kilometer offshore. Data analysis is similar 
for the two gauge types. Data were collected in 34 min records, which 
consisted of 4,096 data values (representing the voltage output of the sensor) 
sampled at 2 Hz. After the voltages were converted to engineering units using 
the sensor calibration factors, the time series were edited to eliminate 
erroneous jumps and spikes. 
Wind Gauge 
Measurements of the wind speed (no. 933) and direction (no. 932) were 
made at the seaward end of the research pier using a Qualimetrics Corporation 
Skyvane Model 2101 anemometer. Wind directions are reported relative to 
Long, Charles E., and Atmadja, Juliana. (1994). “Index and Bulk Parameters for 
Frequency-Direction Spectra Measured at CERC Field Research Facility, September 1990 to 
August 1991,” Miscellaneous Paper CERC-94-5, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment 
Station, Vicksburg, MS. 
E22 Appendix E Stationary Instrument Data 
