Z 



o 





MEASURED PROFILES 



(DATE SHOWN) 





CALCULATED PROFILES 



FEB 17 



FEB 16 



INITIAL PROFILE 



— FEB 16 



FEB 17 

 FEB 18 







FEB 19 









FEB 20 







v \ 



FEB 21 







PRESTORM PROFILE 



20 



60 80 100 120 



OFFSHORE DISTANCE. METERS 



140 



160 



Figure 29. Comparison of calculated and measured beach 

 profiles for Leadbetter Beach, California, 1980 



initial profile (16 February 1980); the sand size; hourly values of signif- 

 icant wave height, period, and direction; and hourly tide levels. Tidal 

 fluctuations played an important role in the mechanism of cross-shore trans- 

 port (Swain and Houston 1984a). The sensitivity of the model to other 

 important parameters is discussed elsewhere (Swain 1984). 



83. A comparison has been made also between measured profile modifica- 

 tion during the Currituck Sand-Bypass Study (Schwartz and Musialowski 1980) 

 and the profile response model calculations. This study involved placement of 

 26,750 cu m of sediment on the coast near New River Inlet, North Carolina, 

 using the split-hull dredge CURRITUCK. Since the dump area was relatively 

 small, there were significant "end effects" so that the amount of sand in the 



65 



