a. CROSS SECTION A-A 



OCEAN 



BOUNDARY 



LINE 





/ 



/ 



/ 



h~ 



BREAKER LINE 



e > 



SETUP LINE 



b. PLAN 

 Figure 6. Definition sketch for the wave- induced current model 



t, = pc < lu , I > V 

 by | orb| 



(30) 



where c is a drag coefficient (of the order of 0.01) and < u , > is the 

 ° I orbl 



time average, over one wave period, of the absolute value of the wave orbital 

 velocity at the bottom. Equations 29 and 30 are based on the assumption that 

 the velocity components U and V of the current are small compared with the 

 wave orbital velocity. From linear wave theory, 



22 



