LIST OF FIGURES 



No. Page 



3 Wave climate for Oregon Inlet: 9 = 45 deg 17 



4 Wave climate for Oregon Inlet: 6=0 deg 18 



5 Wave climate for Oregon Inlet: 9 = - 45 deg 19 



6 Definition sketch for the wave-induced current model 22 



7 Cell notation 26 



8 Setup and free gravity wave 34 



9 Wave setup 34 



10 Velocity in offshore direction 35 



11 Longshore velocity 35 



12 Wave setup, WES calculations 37 



13 Velocity in offshore direction, WES calculations 37 



14 Longshore velocity, WES calculations 38 



15 Comparison of numerical solution for setup with 



experimental data 38 



16 Comparison of numerical and analytical solutions for 



longshore current for plane beach 40 



17 Effect of mixing parameter P on the numerical solution for 



longshore current for plane beach 40 



18 Topography used for Oregon Inlet numerical model simulation ... 42 



19 Mean water levels from Oregon Inlet numerical model simulation . 42 



20 Velocity vector plot for Oregon Inlet simulation 43 



21 Numerical grids used for tidal and storm surge computations ... 44 



22 Ebb currents for existing conditions 46 



23 Ebb current for 2,500-ft jetty spacing 47 



24 Schematization of beach profile at time t 56 



25 Comparison of experimental and calculated onshore-offshore 



profiles, Test 1 61 



26 Comparison of experimental and calculated onshore-offshore 



profiles, Test 2 62 



27 Comparison of experimental and calculated onshore-offshore 



profiles, Test 3 63 



28 Comparison of experimental and calculated onshore-offshore 



profiles, Test 4 64 



29 Comparison of calculated and measured beach profiles for 



Leadbetter Beach, California, 1980 65 



30 Comparison of calculated and measured shore-normal profiles 



for New River Inlet, North Carolina (dredged disposal sand 



movement) 66 



31 Comparison of calculated and measured final profiles for 



New River Inlet, North Carolina 67 



32 Comparison of calculated and measured shore-normal erosion 



for Bodie Island during 1962 Ash Wednesday storm 69 



33 Comparison of calculated and measured shore-normal erosion for 



Pea Island during 1962 Ash Wednesday storm 69 



34 Location of nearshore disposal area 71 



35 Effect of ebb current magnitude on wave amplification 



(no jetties) 77 



36 Dependence of wave amplification on wave period 77 



37 Effect of jetty spacing on wave steepness (H/L = 0.057 



for no jetties) 78 



