CONTENTS 



Page 



PREFACE 1 



LIST OF TABLES 2 



LIST OF FIGURES 2 



CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT .... 5 



PART I: INTRODUCTION 7 



Background 7 



Purpose 7 



PART II: NUMERICAL MODELS 8 



Introduction 8 



Wave Propagation Model 11 



Wave-Induced Current and Setup Model 20 



Tidal and Storm Surge Models 43 



Sediment Transport Models 45 



Profile Response (Onshore-Offshore) Model 54 



PART III: APPLICATIONS ..... 68 



Ash Wednesday Storm 68 



Evaluation of Nonstructural Solution 68 



Wave-Current Interaction 76 



Single Jetty Evaluation 81 



PART IV: SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 89 



REFERENCES 91 



PLATES 1-13 



APPENDIX A: NOTATION Al 



LIST OF TABLES 



No . Page 



1 Percentage of Dumped Material Transported into the Active 



Surf Zone in 1 Year 75 



2 Selected Wave Characteristics from 20-Year Hindcast of WESWIS . . 83 



3 Volume of Materials Trapped in the Oregon Inlet Channel 86 



4 Volume of Materials Eroded between the South Jetty 



and the South Channel Boundary 86 



LIST OF FIGURES 



No. Page 



1 Location Map 6 



2 Numerical grid for Oregon Inlet simulation 10 



