APPENDIX A: NOTATION 



a , b , c Mapping constants for region p in x-direction 



a , b , c Mapping constants for region q in y-direction 

 n 4 H 



A„ Area off cell 

 c 



c Drag coefficient, wave celerity 



C Wave celerity, coefficient 



C Wave group velocity 



CV Chezy coefficient 



C Average sediment concentration (dimensionless) 



d Local water depth 



d New water depth of a cell 

 new r 



D Sediment diameter exceeded in size by 65 percent (by weight) of 

 sediment sample 



'50 



Median diameter of sediment 



2 

 E Wave energy density = pgH /8 



fw Wave friction factor 



fwi Wave friction factor based on bed roughness 



fw 2 Wave friction factor with D as bed roughness 



g Acceleration due to gravity 



h Local still-water depth 



h Depth of point dividing the lower limit of D-profile and the 

 upper limit of transition area 



h Position of maximum runup 



H Wave height 



H „ Maximum wave height in the spectrum 

 mo ° r 



i,j Cell indices 

 k Wave number 

 k Wave number vector 



Al 



