k , k Components of wave number vector 

 x y 



Li ■ Length of onshore profile 



L2£ Length of offshore profile 



m,n Indices for cell center 



m-1/2 

 m+1/2 

 n-1/2 



n+1/2 Indices for cell faces 



M, N Cell indices in FORTRAN 



n Ratio of group velocity to wave celerity, Cq/C 



N Empirical mixing coefficient of Longuet-Higgins 



p Porosity of sediment 



P Mixing parameter of Longuet-Higgins 



P,Q,R,S Recursion coefficients 



Qi Total sediment transport rate across surf zone 



r-^ Bed roughness 



s Arbitrary variable, mass density of sediment relative to that of 

 fluid 



S Total sediment transport rate per unit width 



S- • Radiation stress 



S ,S ,S Radiation stresses 

 xx xy yy 



S- ,S t Total sediment transport rates into and out of a cell 



5 y> it 



t Time 



T Wave period 



T Period of wave when there is no cur.rent 



u Wave orbital velocity at the bottom 



< u . > Time average of the absolute value of the wave orbital velocity 

 at bottom 



A2 



