naturally occurring wave and shoreline change. The refraction model is 
described in Part III, and the shoreline change model is described in Part IV. 
Project area 
23. In contrast to the considerable literature on Sandy Hook, few 
published studies are available on the coastal processes along the heavily 
structured shoreline from Sea Bright to Shark River Inlet. A catalogue of 
selected structures along the New Jersey coast contains clear photographs, 
dating from the 1920's to 1961, of groins and seawall sections along Deal, 
Monmouth, Sea Bright, and neighboring beaches (CE 1964). The location and 
condition of modern groins from Sea Bright to Asbury Park are described in an 
unpublished collection of groin inspection sheets (Coastal Planning and Engi- 
neering, undated, Circa 1985) prepared under contract for CENAN. 
24. Wave data. Helle (1958, pp 6 and A-7 therein) compiled monthly 
statistics on visual observations of breaking waves off Monmouth Beach 
Lifeboat Station from 1954-1957. Wave height, direction (point on the com- 
pass), and period were averaged for 10 significant waves at 4-hr intervals 
during daylight hours. Fifty percent of the breaking wave heights in the 
observation period were less than 3 ft (0.9 m), 85 percent were less than 4 ft 
(1.2 m), and less than 5 percent were greater than 5.5 ft (1.7 m). Breaking 
wave heights larger than 6 ft (1.8 m) occurred rarely, and no waves higher 
than 10 ft (3.0 m) were recorded. Average wave periods were typically in the 
5-9 sec range. For 36 months of the 37-month observation period, the majority 
of the waves were out of the southeast and east; during 1 month waves were 
mainly out of the northeast. Very rare occurrences of waves out of the north 
and south were reported. 
25. The report of Saville (1954) presents results of a hindcast made 
for four stations along the north Atlantic coast. Two of the stations are 
relevant to this report: New York Harbor, north of Sandy Hook, and Cape May, 
at the end of the New Jersey barrier island chain. The hindcast was performed 
by hand using techniques that have been superceded in the CE by automated 
techniques employed in the present report (Part III). 
26. Fairchild (1966) interpolated values of wave parameters from the 
1954 hindeast (Saville 1954) to obtain wave heights and angles "at the shore- 
line" along the north New Jersey coast, including the vicinity of the project 
area. His procedure and results, although pioneering, are somewhat ambiguous 
due to the hybrid methodology employed. The shoreward limit of the refraction 
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