39. From Table 1 it is seen that the average significant wave height is 
0.45 m and the average maximum yearly significant wave height is 3.70 m. The 
largest wave height, 6.87 m, which defines Event 1, occurred during the noto- 
rious 3 March 1962 "5-High" storm, which had a duration that lasted through 5 
high tides. 
40. Table 2 (see also Figure 8) shows that 61.9 percent of the hindcast 
waves originated out of the southern sector (from S through ESE), 15 percent 
were out of the east, and 7.7 percent were out of the east-northeast. The 
total is 84.6 percent. The remainder, 15.4 percent, represents the occurrence 
of completely calm wave conditions, for which neither sea nor swell existed. 
The zero occurrences in Table 2 for most of the northern sector are a result 
of wave sheltering by Long Island, New York, discussed in the next paragraph. 
Due to the bias for waves to originate from the south, the predominant direc- 
tion of longshore sediment transport at the project area is expected to be 
from south to north. This is in general agreement with the commonly accepted 
direction of transport along this coast. The local orientation of the shore- 
line and wave refraction over the irregular bottom must be incorporated for 
more quantitative discussion of longshore sediment transport. 
41, Wave Sheltering. The WIS Phase III wave generation technique 
allows for wave sheltering by large land masses. In the present case, Long 
Island restricts the fetch of winds and propagation of waves out of the north 
directed toward the north New Jersey coast. The directional distribution of 
the potential wave population is modified in two ways if sheltering enters the 
hindeast. For wind seas, the energy within discrete direction bands is 
removed (zeroed) if the orientation of the sheltering land body would preclude 
propagation of waves in the band. For the swell component, all energy in the 
geometric shadow zone of the land mass is removed. For the north New Jersey 
coast, the sheltering effect of Long Island is greatest at Sandy Hook and 
decreases with distance to the south. The single WIS hindcast specifically 
performed for this study was assumed to be valid for the project reach; i.e., 
the differential effect of shadowing with distance along the coast was assumed 
to be negligible. 
Selection of 
representative wave conditions 
42, The shoreline model (described in Part IV) requires input of repre- 
sentative wave conditions. Since the purpose of the model is to simulate 
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