15 



P RUG* am SPECT( INPUT i OUTPUT, TAPt5»lNPUT,TAPE6"0UTPUT»TAPE9) 

 t CUMHUTOR ALGORITHM TU CALCULATE LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR AND HAVE 

 C UIHECUON FOR TWO PRESSURE SENSOR ARRAY 

 C MAIN PROGRAM 

 C PRUGKAM IS PRESENTLY SET UP TU TAKE A TIME 8ER1E8 OF 102(1 POINTS IN MAIN 



DIMENSION c (5 t 2) 



DIMENSION F1R(102«),F1I( 102*). F2R(102«).F21U02<I) 



DIMENSION SlGMA(5l2)«FM0D8Q($l8),THETA(512) 



DIMENSION C12(512)|UI2(512) 



DIMENSION w(102«) 



OIMENSION CS(5J2)»8INTH8(5JI) 



HEAL MEAN1,MEAN2 



LOGICAL END 



DA1A END/, FALSE./ 

 101 FURMAT(10(2X,F8.2)) 



25 



10 



UEF INITIONS'FIXED VARIABLES 



K»tXHONENTIAL PO«ER DEFINING NUMBER OF TIME 8EHIES POINTS* (2»*K) 



S«SPACING BETwEFN MAVE GACE8 (FEET) 



DELTT«TIME STEP BETWEEN P0INT8 In AVERAGED TIME SERIE8 (SECONDS) 



BETA .ANGLE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVE CAGE ALIGNMENT AND |H0RELINt(RADlAN8) 



8L0PE»3L0PE OF BEACH AT POINT UF WAVE BREAKING 



GAMHAisPECIFIC WEIGHT OF FLUIO (LBS/FT»«J) 



b»UI8TANCE OF PHE88URE SENSORS ABOVE BOTTOM (FEET) 



(.•ACCELERATION OF ORAVITY (FEET/SEC**?) 



GB»RATIO BREAKING WAVE HElGHT/UEPTH FOR LINEAR THEORY COMPUTATION 



OF w*VE HEIGHT 

 GBP»RATIO BREAKING WAVE HEIGHT/DEPTH FOR LINEAR THEORY COMPUTATION OF 



WATER DEPTH GIVEN BREAKlNO WAVE HEIGHT 



35 



60 



65 



TO 



DEFINITIONS-FLOATING VARIABLES 



AVGl«AvERAGE OF TIME 3EHIE81 



AVb2«AVERAGE OF TIME SERIES 2 



C(I)»WAVE CELERITY 



Cia(I)«COSPECTR» OF 5ERIE81-2 



CBiBREAKlNG WAVE CELERITY 



CGdJaGROUP wave CELERITY 



CNTL(I)«<1096 POINT TIME SERIES BEFORE AVERAGING 



DEHTH»DEPTH OF WATER AT GAGE SITE FROM AVEKAGE8 OF GAGES 1 AND 2 



F11(I)«UN0EFINED/C0MPLEX IMAGINARY PURTIUN OF TRANSFORM 



F1H(I)»TIME SERIES DATA GAGE 1 /COMPLEX REAL PORTION OF TRANSFORM 



F21(I)iUNOEFINED/C0MPLEX IMAGINARY PORTION OF TRANSFORM 



F2H(l)«TJME SERIES DATA GAGE2/C0MPLEX REAL PORTION OF TRANSFORM 



FMOOSU(I)«TIME SERIES AMPLITUDE MODULUS SQUARED 



HBUBHEAKING WAVE HEIGHT 



IA(I)«5000 POINT DATA GROUP AND TIME 8ERIE8 RECORD 



PLNE(i*NEG»TIVf CONTRIBUTION TO LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR 



PLNETBNET LONGSHORE ENERGY FLUX FACTOR 



PLPOStPOSITIVE CONTRIBUTION TO L0NG3H0RF ENERGY FLUX FACTOR 



U12(1)«UUAD3PECTHA OF SERIES 1-2 



R»iiCALING FACTOR FOR SCALING UP ENERGY OF nonuSABLE 



PORTIONS OF DIRECTIONAL SPEC1RA 

 RATIU1»RATI0 OF ENERGY/W INuOWfcu ENERGY FUR GAGE 1 

 RMIU2«R»TIU OF ENEHGY/wlNOOwED ENERGY FUR GAGE 2 

 HEALU)«102U POINT UM t SERIES AFTER AVERAGING 

 HNsRATIO OF GROUP WAVE CELERITY TO WAVE CELERITY 

 RSHFRUaPERCENT OF ENERGY BEYUND 8PACIAL ALIASING FREUUENCY 

 HSLFRU.PERCENT OF ENERGY BELUW LUW FREliUENtY CUTOFF 

 RSUDD«PERCENT OF INCOHERENT ENERGY 

 8HFREO»8UH OF ENERGY WITH FREQUENCIES ABOVE SPACIAL 



ALIASING FREQUENCY CUTOFF 

 SHG2«8UMMATION OF ONSHORE ENERGY FLUX 

 SIGMA(I)«RADIAL FREUUENCY 



8LFR6M"8UM OF ENERGY wjTH FREQUENCIES BELOW LOW FREQUENCY CUTOFF 

 SODD«SUM OF ENERGY WITH FREQUENCIES HAVING INCOHERENT NAVE OIRECTIQN 

 SUMEN^SUM OF ENERGY 



SUMl«suM OF SQUARES OF TIME SERIES 1 WITHOUT AVERAGE 

 SUM2#SUM OF SQUARES UF TIME 8ENIE8 2 WITHOUT AVERAGE 

 SUMF1«8UM OF SQUARES OF TIME" SERIES 1 HITH AVERAGE 

 SUMF2B8UM OF SQUARES UF TlMf. SERIES 8 WITH AVERAGE 

 T«wAVE PERIOD 

 THtTA(I)«WAVE DIRECTION IN RADIANS 



Figure 2. Listing of main program. 



14 



