SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 

 a ,b Fourier series coefficients 

 B distance from bottom to pressure sensors 

 C wave celerity 

 C cospectrum value 

 d total water depth 



d, breaking wave depth 



E wave energy density 



F complex Fourier coefficient 



f discrete frequency value 



GB,GBP ratio of rms breaking wave height to breaking wave depth 



g acceleration of gravity 



H. breaking wave height 



i , j counting indexes 



K dynamic pressure response factor 



k wave number 



L wavelength 



£ sensor spacing 



m index to account for gage number 



N total number of discrete data points 



n frequency number, argument of Fourier series coefficients 



P» longshore energy flux at the surf line 



P pressure time-series values 



p dynamic pressure 



Q quad-spectrum value 



R ratio of unwindowed energy density to windowed energy density 



S complex cross-spectrum value 



T length of time series record 



Trj F high frequency cutoff period 



w weighting coefficient 



z water surface elevation 



g gage orientation angle 



Y specific weight of seawater 



wave direction 



Ad average mean depth of water overlaying pressure sensors 



Af frequency step 



At time step 



id angular wave frequency 



