CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 5 



SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 6 



I INTRODUCTION 7 



II METHODOLOGY 7 



1. Calculation of Wave Direction and Energy Spectrum at Wave Gages.. 8 



2. Transformation of Wave Spectrum to Breaker Line 12 



III MAIN PROGRAM DOCUMENTATION 13 



IV SUBROUTINE DOCUMENTATION 22 



1 . FFT Subroutine 22 



2 . HFC Subroutine 26 



3 . SWITCH Subroutine 27 



4 . WVLEN Subroutine 27 



5. BUF Subroutine 28 



V SAMPLE OUTPUT 29 



LITERATURE CITED 33 



FIGURES 



1 Definition sketch for two sensor array 10 



2 Listing of main program 14 



3 Listing of FFT subroutine 25 



4 Listing of HFC subroutine 27 



5 Listing of SWITCH subroutine 27 



6 Listing of WVLEN subroutine 28 



7 Listing of BUF subroutine 29 



8 Three examples of output for wave gage pair at Channel Islands Harbor.. 30 



