PREFACE 



The work described herein was authorized as a part of the Civil Works 

 Research and Development Program by Headquarters , US Army Corps of Engineers 

 (HQUSACE) . Work was performed under the Surf Zone Sediment Transport Proces- 

 ses Work Unit 34321 and the Shoreline and Beach Topography Response Modeling 

 Work Unit 32592, which are part of the Shore Protection and Restoration 

 Program at the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) at the US Army 

 Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES). Messrs. John H. Lockhart, Jr., 

 and John G. Housley were HQUSACE Technical Monitors. 



This report was written and the shoreline change modeling system 

 improved over the period from 1 May 1988 through 30 September 1989 by Dr. Hans 

 Hanson, Associate Professor, Department of Water Resources Engineering (DWRE) , 

 Lund Institute of Science and Technology, University of Lund (UL) , Sweden, and 

 Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus , Senior Scientist, Research Division (RD) , CERC. Work 

 performed at the UL was under the administrative supervision of Professor 

 Dr. Gunnar Lindh, Head, DWRE. The CERC portion of the study was under the 

 general administrative supervision of Dr. James R. Houston, Chief, CERC; 

 Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Assistant Chief, CERC; Dr. Charles L. Vincent, 

 Program Manager, Shore Protection and Restoration Program, CERC; and Mr. H. 

 Lee Butler, Chief, RD, CERC. The framework of this report was developed and a 

 detailed draft outline written while Dr. Kraus was in residence at DWRE over 

 the period May- June 1988. 



Dr. Kraus was Principal Investigator of Work Unit 34321 during the 

 conceptual and model development phase of this study; Ms. Kathryn J. 

 Gingerich, Coastal Processes Branch (CPB) , RD, was Principal Investigator 

 during preparation of the working draft of this report, which was used in a 

 September 1989 workshop. Final revision and publication of this report were 

 made under the Shoreline and Beach Topography Response Modeling Work Unit 

 32592. Mr. Mark B. Gravens , CPB, was Principal Investigator of Work Unit 

 32592, under the direct supervision of Mr. Bruce A. Ebersole, Chief, CPB. 



Ms. Gingerich, Mr. Gravens, and Ms. Julie Dean Rosati , CPB, provided 

 valuable reviews of the report. Ms. Joan Pope, Chief, Coastal Structures and 

 Evaluation Branch, Engineering Development Division, reviewed the case study 



