OFFSHORE WAVES 

 Ho, 0o. T 



I 



BATHYMETRIC DATA 

 D„ 



z 



RCPWAVE 

 (External Wave Model) 



z 



REFERENCE WAVES 

 Hr, 0r, T 



I 



REFERENCE DEPTHS 

 Di 



HISTORICAL SHORELINE 

 POSITIONS 



Z 



GENESIS 



X 



BREAKING WAVES 



H bi , b „ T 



(Internal Wave Model) 



I 



STRUCTURES, BOUNDARY 

 CONDITIONS, OTHER DATA 



LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE 



Qi 



SHORELINE CHANGE 



Figure 15. GENESIS, RCPWAVE, and the overall calculation flow 



158. Rather than running the external wave model at every time step, a 

 time savings technique is used in which the offshore wave conditions are 

 divided into period and direction bands (Kraus et al . 1988). Typically, the 

 range in period existing in the record is divided into 1-sec intervals, and 

 the range in direction of incident waves is divided into 11.25- or 22.5-deg 

 intervals. This procedure gives on the order of 50 to 100 period-direction 

 bands, and refraction runs are made with the external wave model using unit 

 wave height to provide what are termed "transformation coefficients" along the 

 nearshore reference line. To key into these calculated refraction results, 



75 



