H^ Breaking wave height without diffraction, m 



H ref Wave height at the reference depth, m 



H rf Wave height at reference line, m 



i Subscript denoting grid cell number; also, arbitrary counter 



K x Longshore transport rate calibration parameter; also Kl 



K 2 Longshore transport rate calibration parameter; also K2 



K D Diffraction coefficient for combined wave diffraction 



K DL Diffraction coefficient for diffracting source on left 



K DR Diffraction coefficient for diffracting source on right 



K DT Wave diffraction coefficient for a transmissive structure 



K R Refraction coefficient 



K s Shoaling coefficient 



K T Wave transmission coefficient for a single structure 



L Wavelength, m 



L^, Wavelength at breakpoint, m 



L Wavelength in deep water, m 



M Number of independent wave components 



N Number of calculation grid cells; also NN 



p Sediment porosity 



q Cross -shore sand transport rate, m 3 /sec/m 



q Cross -shore sand transport rate from offshore, m 3 /sec/m 



q s Cross-shore sand transport rate from the shore, m 3 /sec/m 



Q Longshore sand transport rate, m 3 /sec 



Q g Gross longshore sand transport rate, m 3 /sec 



Qg Longshore sand transport rate at a groin, m 3 /sec 



Q^,. Longshore sand transport to the left, m 3 /sec 



Q n Net longshore sand transport rate, m 3 /sec 



Q rt Longshore sand transport to the right, m 3 /sec 



R KT Ratio of smaller valued to larger valued transmission coefficients 



R s Stability parameter 



t Time , sec 



T Wave period, sec 



V Mean longshore current speed, m/sec 



x Longshore coordinate, m 



E2 



