10 



NON-BREAKING 

 REFLECTIDN 



S- 0,1 



w 



0.01 '- 



SURGING 



COLLAPSING 



:^^ 



■7< 



PLUNGING 



"^^^^ 



SPILLING 



NON-BREAKING 

 TOTAL DISSIPATION 



.LJ L 



90 



45 



20 



10 ai 



0.5 



0.25 



0.0 



0.4 



0.8 



0.12 



Initial wave height to 

 water depth ratio (H|/d|) 



Figure 4. Appearance and classification of breaking waves 



according to Galvin (1968) combined with beach slope 

 and wave height to water depth ratio as discussed by 

 Street and Camfield (1966) (adapted from Carter 1988) 



Chapter 2 Relevant Processes and Factors 



13 



