/SUBMARINE VALLEY 



WAVE CRESTS 

 DRCHDGDNALS 



SUBMARINE CDNTDURS 



Figure 3. Wave refraction surrounding headlands and bays and over submarine 

 morphologic features 



As waves continue to enter shallower water depths, they may become un- 

 stable and break, becoming substantially distorted in shape from their 

 deep water form. Breaking waves follow a continuum that has been classified 

 by Galvin (1968) into spilling, plunging, collapsing, and surging breakers. In 

 general, steep deepwater waves and onshore winds approaching gentle slopes 

 produce spilling breakers, where water spills down the steepened shoreward 

 wave face (Figure 4). Plunging breakers are associated with long, low deep- 

 water swells and intermediate slopes. Flatter waves breaking on a steeply 

 sloping shore surge or collapse, with the base of the wave surging forward 

 and the crest collapsing or disappearing. 



12 



Chapter 2 Relevant Processes and Factors 



